Clare family values food from farm to fork

SEAN and Fiona Haugh are the epitome of the farm to fork concept, offering full traceability to customers who want their food to be produced in a sustainable way.

Not only does, Sean (62) kill cattle in his abattoir on his farm on the outskirts of Kilkee, the third generation butcher sells his own meat with the help of his daughter, Fiona in the Market House, Ennistymon.

Sean sources Aberdeen Angus cattle and Charolass yews from his customers in North and West Clare.

Every year, he finishes Hereford cattle and Angus after purchasing them as weanlings.

The stock is finished on the family farm and fed on a grass-fed system using the rich in nutrient clover pastures along the picturesque coastal walk from the Diamond Rocks Café in Kilkee.

Versatile in every way, the Market House Ennistymon comprises of a craft butchers, food hall, deli and café.

Founded in July 2015, the father and daughter run business provides locals and visitors the best fresh local produce created by themselves and from fellow local producers.

In addition to the duo, the Market House employs 11 people including three full time staff.

Following in the footsteps of his father, John and grandfather, Sean said it is hard for butcher’s shops and abattoirs to survive on their own.

The number of abattoirs has now declined to four in the county.

He kills an estimated 350 cattle and in excess of 1,500 sheep annually.

Apart from supplying meat for their own food market in Ennistymon, Sean also provides meat for butchers in West Clare.

“It is terrible there are only about three or four of us left. At one stage, there was three or four abattoirs in every town.

“When the price of beef is good farmers are happy because their costs and overheads are high. I have an advantage when I can kill my own cattle. I buy cattle off local farmers and they come in to me for meat.

“All the cattle I kill are from Clare, so it all stays in Clare. It all goes around in a circle, which is good for the local economy.”

Sean has three decades worth of experience in sourcing excellent livestock, all processed and managed in house ensuring customers have clear and direct traceability back to the locality.

All the turkey, beef, ham and chicken used in their deli hot gourmet sandwiches is taken fresh off the butchers and cooked for use.

“Customers have the option of buying a takeaway sandwich or eating it in the adjoining café.”

Following the introduction of a lot of new EU regulations a few years ago, Fiona recalls this closed down a lot of the independent slaughter houses.

Having spent five years working with her father in Eurospar, Rathkeale, Fiona went travelling for two years and then got a job working in Smyths head office as a buyer.

When her father approached her again to resume working together she recalled the prospect of opening a food hall where they sold more than just meat an enticing opportunity.

“For the traditional butcher shop, I think you need something else to draw people in. When people go into the big supermarkets, they can get everything they want. I think you have to offer more than just meat in a food hall.”

“We went to Dublin a few times to look at food halls as part of our research before we opened in Ennistymon. We bought the premises in Ennistymon, which was vacant for about ten years, in 2014 and opened for business in July 2015.

“I have been butchering with Dad since I was 15. I was reared over a butcher’s shop on the main street in Miltown. I am the second of four girls but I am the only one who stayed and worked with him.”

“When I came up to work in Ennistymon, I didn’t know anything about deli only that I liked good food. It was a big learning curve for me.

“I can now tailor the menu for what customers want. Before Covid-19 my menu was massive. Before Covid-19, it was impossible to know what day would be busy.

“I find customers are different since the Covid-19 pandemic. I think it is a different experience since Covid-19. People appreciate dining out now more since we returned after Covid-19 restrictions.”

During the Covid-19 restrictions the Market House could only provide a takeaway service. However, a lot of new customers who availed of takeaway are still coming to support a strong lunch trade during the winter months.

A member of Good Food Ireland, Fiona sources her ingredients from local artisan food producers such as salmon from the Burren Smokehouse and it purchases pudding packs from her.
Other local food suppliers include St Tola’s Cheese and Carrygerry Country House.

Food hampers including fresh meat chutney, jams, cheese, chocolate are sold nationwide and to exiles in the United States of America who send them as gifts to family and friends in Ireland.
Christmas themed hampers are a big seller during the festive season.

With the help of an online trading voucher from the Clare Local Enterprise Office, she got a new website built by Artvaark Design, Kilkee, which helped to drive a huge increase in online sales.

Having fresh meat is an attractive selling point for the hampers.

“A lot of people ask for a rib-eye on the bone, pudding pack or a roast beef to be included in the hamper.”

Market House also benefits from being a member of the Burren Ecotourism Network and is supported by the Burren Food Trail.

It is also part of the Best in Ireland McKenna Guide.

Fiona believes Ennistymon has become an exciting food hub for locals and tourists.

“Ennistymon is a very busy town now. Christmas is very busy. Sean would have to stop killing about a week before Christmas.

“Customers are coming into the food hall that are selling my father meat and they can buy their own meat. There is a real joy in that.

“Before Covid-19, the Cliffs of Moher brought tourists from St Patrick’s Day until the end of October. I am supplying the café in the Cliffs of Moher.

“Ennistymon has developed into an artisan food hub with businesses offering something a bit different. When people come to Ennistymon for the first time, they can’t get over the place. There is great character to the town.”

“There is a whole new emphasis on food. People are more conscious of where beef is coming from.”